Beer for Breakfast?

June 23, 2010
Is 9 am too early for your first glass of beer? Not in Tromsø. Welcome to the Mack Brewery, the largest commercial and microbrewery in Northern Norway since they opened doors in 1876. Although the administrative offices and factory have been located in Tromsø since they first opened doors, Mack Brewery's factory and brewhouse will be moving 70 km east of the city in two years to expand and upgrade machinery. The administrative headquarters will remain in Tromsø and the ølhallen, the oldest pub in Tromsø, will add extra floors. Today, ølhallen starts serving the first beer at 9 am and generally closes doors around 6 pm, catering largely to the old timers and those stopping by the brew for a tour of the facility. ølhallen started as the central location for all people who went to the Arctic, whether it be fishermen, researchers or explorers. The pub has not changed since the first days 80 years ago. In addition to being the largest brewhouse, Mack Brewery is also the northern most producer of Coca Cola products, supplying all of Northern Norway.

In addition to their traditional spread, Mack Brewery focuses on four seasonal limited time brew created to pair with the traditional food of the time. In the spring, the brew pairs well with cod and Easter lamb; in the summer, with shrimp; in autumn, with game and moose and finally, in winter, it is the Christmas beer. During our tour, we walked through the soda creating and bottling floor to the brewing machines, storage and even where the yeast is harvested and the beer is made.

After a stroll through downtown, we headed over to the Chamber of Commerce to learn more about the local business organization designed to bring together the companies in Tromsø and offer the support (advice, finances and network) needed to help businesses grow. Northern Norway currently has 30 percent of the land but only 10 percent of the population, so part of the Chamber's motives are to attract and retain individuals into the area. With an operating budget of about 200 million NOK a year, the Chamber has money to help develop innovative and interesting projects which they consider through an application process. They are currently focusing their business development in three areas: petrol, biotech and international affairs. About 50 percent of the budget comes from Tromsø county, while the other 50 percent comes from member dues or member budgets. Interestingly, Tromsø has 15 million NOK set aside for culture and innovation and the problem isn't the money, but the lack of creative ideas! We need to set aside that kind of money for the arts back home.

Our next stop was to Polaria and the Norwegian Polar Institute... what an amazing institution! The Norwegian Polar Institute is currently home to the Arctic Council but works to study climate and environment in the Polar Circle. It was established in 1928 and has several researchers on staff to conduct field studies and work to preserve the environment. While visiting the center, we saw the oldest book documenting the Polar Circle. The "Diarivm Nartium feu Vera Descripto Auctore Gerardo de Vera" was the Latin version of the Danish tale about the travel from Svalbard to the mainland Norway. At Polaria, we watched a panaromic video highlighting the scenery between Tromsø to Svalbard through the seasons. There is no question that the landscape of Northern Norway is unrivaled! We were able to meet the two seals at Polaria while we visited the interactive museum.

We had seen Tromsø by day, now it was finally time to check out Tromsø by night... and what better night to do it than Midsummer? Midsummer or Sankthansaften is June 23 and a Norwegian celebration to honor the summer solstice. The traditional celebration includes going down to the beach and starting a bonfire to barbeque and toast to new beginnings. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans and the rain kept us from starting a bonfire but we did make new friends with the local Rotaract group and hit the town, first to have the best pizza in town at Yonas and then onto Grunder and Strut for some drinks and dancing. Skol to Norway!